Do Old Vines Lead to More Concentrated…

Do Old Vines Lead to More Concentrated, Intense Wines?

The term “old vines” refer to gnarly, thick-trunked and grandfather-like vines which command attention in the vineyard, and is often seen on wine labels. But what does ‘old vines’ actually mean? And does the term ‘vieilles vignes’ —as the French say — have the same significance in France as in America? Probably not, because the use of the phrase is relative to the specific age of the vineyard and actually has no agreed upon definition in either country or any appellation.

The implication of ‘old vine’ is that the vines are older than most and therefore closer to termination of production and the average yields are dropping, leading to more concentrated, intense wines. Some believe that old vines produce grapes of distinctive character that are superior to younger vines.

Without an objective definition, a wine made from old vines may not show any specific characteristics related to vine age, although the use of the term on the label can be a “point of sale” persuader. Look to a reputable producer for the term to actually have some creditability when noted on the bottle. If a producer sells both regular and old vine bottling, the term is more likely to represent a perceptible difference in character.

‘Old vines’ is similar to the word ‘reserve’ on a label, denoting no legal or exact definition. The general definition for old vines is grape vines that are 40 years or older, producing smaller quantities and higher quality fruit than younger vines. However, in the United States, the term ‘century vines’ denotes vines of 100 years or older.

Four- to seven-year-old vines will produce grapes from which wine can be made. As the vine ages, however, the roots will grow substantially deeper, along the way picking up a greater variety of nutrients and producing more flavorful grapes.

Most experts agree that a vine starts to mature in seven to eight years. Some experts claim vines to have excess energy and vigor up to 25 years, during which period the root system expands and penetrates deep into the soil reaching water reserves and extracting many elements and minerals from the layer of soil.

At 30 years of age, the plant starts producing less but better (deeply flavored) quality of fruit. As a rule, vines are replaced at age 50, but in theory, the plant could produce for a much longer period if well maintained. In fact, there is a vine that is over 300 years old that can be found in the lobby of a Roman hotel in Italy; this vine still produces a few bunches of grapes annually.

Young vines must be trained to channel their energy to quality rather than quantity, achieved by pruning and green harvesting. However, some growers believe that good terroir can compensate for young vines. Mature vines will yield great wine and old ones superb quality.

Young vines produce more leaves while older vines generate energy in starch found in the wood, roots and trunk. Starch is metabolically more complex than leaf-derived glucose. Therefore, the taste of old vine fruit is more complex. A healthy 60-year-old vine may not be able to produce 20 bunches, but knows its limitations and yields a few bunches of higher quality.